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Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
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AHAs? - WHAT are
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are 2 types of hydroxy acids mostly used in skin care products.Beta hydroxy acid is made from salicylic acid. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is a an umbrella term for fruit acids like malic, tartaric and glycolic.Using AHA's makes the skin surface smooth and supports other skin rejuvenation treatments. A big plus is that it also evens out skin tones and impacts on UV damage on the skin. It can be used over a longer period or in intensive high strength sessions.
They are very popular in the skincare industry.
Skin Exfoliation
Another method of attacking hyperpigmentation problems is exfoliating the skin's top layers to elimate execessive pigmentation. There are a range of exfoliation methods, ranging from diy treatments to stronger salon based treatments. They include:
| AHA's
- Glycolic Acid |
Microdermabrasion | Peeling masks |
| BHA's - salicylic acid | Micro-bead face scrubs | |
| Enzyme treatments | Exfoliating cloths and gloves |
AHA's work by breaking down the glue between skin cells of the epidermis so allowing exfoliation to take place. Which results in a quicker turn over of skin cells, leading new smoother skin. This turn over also helps other skin treatments penetrate the skin more effectively. They are improve roughness, mottled pigmentated and photodamaged skin
Current AHA's are:
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
The Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids.
Beta Hydroxy Acids work is lipid solubility, Alpha hydroxy acids are water
soluble. So have an effect on on oily skin cells use bha, and use aha's
on sun-damaged, aged or roughened skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids - Side Effect
Remember to always use with caution - after all they are acids. Remember
less is always better than more. Irritation and sun sensitivity is the
main side effect of using aha's. People with Black or Asian skin are more
likely to suffer from hyperpigmentation, scarring or damage in some way
due to use of AHA's. Look out for the pH factors in products and the strenght
of the product.Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of between
5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
Beta Hydroxy Acids - Side Effects
It has been reported that BHA are less irritating to the skin than AHA's,
despite the fact that it penetrates the skin cells deeper. This could
be because BHA's are derived acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. As you
know aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties. However BHS's can still
cause skin irritation. Black or Asian people should watch out for adverse
effects which may make any pigmenation problems worse.
If the percentage is not listed, then take a look at the ingredients. If alpha hydroxy acid is listed as the second or third ingredient it means the product contains a sufficient concentration to be effective. However beta hydroxy acid is effective at lower concentration so it may be listed in the middle or near the bottom.
Sun Sensitivity
Although use AHA's may affect photoaging on skin, it can also make the skin more susceptible to the sun's photoaging rays. So of course use a wide spectrum sunscreen of at least 15 containing UVA and UVB protection
Remember: The Best Wrinkle Preventer is Sun Protection
Together they are stronger - combining these with other skinlightening/brightening products are normally more effective. Notice over the counter products usually have mixture of active ingredients.
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